Another year of the best of the best

In 2023, I went on 86 hikes, thirty-two of which were on trails new to me. For the past four years, I’ve been documenting my annual hiking activity. It’s not a race. It’s not a goal. It’s not a competition with myself or anyone. It’s simply an important part of my life. My move to Colorado is how I found the space and the place for all of this. Loss closes many doors. Grief can open new ones, if you can find them and if you will allow it.

This year, I hiked in Indiana, Arizona, North Carolina, Wyoming, Montana, and of course, Colorado. I summitted four 14ers and four 13ers. I saw moose (18 on one hike!), mountain goats, longhorn sheep, marmots, pika, fox, ptarmigan, and bald eagle.

I’ve been selecting my top ten hikes each year, and for the second year in a row, I’ve decided to put them in my blog. I usually do this right at year end, but this year is different for all sorts of reasons that are simply perfect examples of how life goes, where it goes, without asking our permission.

I’ve been busy. Using all of my brain, my heart, and my soul to keep up. I signed a contract for an intensive five-month work project on November 19. Mom passed away on November 24^th. And on December 30^th, we started a sudden and shocking medical journey with my niece. I always intend to reach for the warm rays of sun even on the darkest, shittiest, most unfair days. It doesn’t always work. But, it is part of living and loving.

The fact that this is our sacred journey, with many turns, is exactly why getting outside is still important to me. Being in nature is a critical part of mental and emotional well being. You don’t have to do it like this. But I hope I can inspire in everyone, the value of getting outside for thirty minutes to walk if you can or to get near a tree. Listen, smell, look around, feel your feet on the ground. Whatever senses you have available to you. Use them. Get present with nature. It will matter.

A quick reminder about my photos which I stop for frequently. These images are important to me. I look at them and relive the magic of all these incredible places, but I NEVER go anywhere just for the photo. I go to feel alive and to be at peace. And only then do I find the photo. It is my biggest priority to stay present where I am. I’m certain that on every hike this past year, I found what I was looking for and many things I didn’t know I needed.  Some of that came from the challenge or the angst, and some from the stillness and solitude. Here is another year of the best of the best.

10. Flatirons 1 and 2, Boulder, CO. I was desperate for a good climb, with no mud, which can be hard to find near Denver in the Spring. I had always avoided this area due to crowds on the first half mile of the trail. Every tourist who comes to Boulder walks the first part of this trail. No judgement. I was once one too. But as soon as I hit the fork to get off the main trail, to my delight, I was mostly alone. I found a heart-racing incline, unexpected bouldering, and a few places requiring hand holds too. This is also where I saw three female rangers carrying large logs up the trail for maintenance. Incredible. Thank you, trail stewards! Read more about this in my blog from last year,  Making this journey possible.

9.  Loch Lomond, Idaho Springs, CO. My second time on this trail, but my first with Hank. We hiked this in early summer so there was perfect snow melt, and I even had no choice but to get my feet wet on two of the water crossings. Hank was so happy to step right in a take a drink of the pure goodness of rocky mountain snow melt. I love this time with my boy who has been my favorite hiking partner since the day we got him.

8. Stanley Mountain, Empire, CO. This area has become one of my favorites for many great hikes. This was a fun one because I started on one trail and ended up adding an extension and summitted what is just shy of a 13er. I just felt really relaxed and at the same time strong and adventurous on this hike. When I reached what I thought would be my turnaround point, I checked the map and saw that Stanley Mountain was up ahead. Of course, I thought I could see it, but it turned out to be two false summits. Eventually I got it right and felt really glad that I had just kept going and also that I had packed a sandwich for lunch.

7. Square Top Mountain, Georgetown, CO. I had been on this trail the prior year but only as far as the first lake due to weather. I was eager to come back to continue past both lakes and onto the 13er summit. I was so ready to get the hiking season started this year, because it was a long rough winter and spring. This was my first big hike of early summer, and I still did it too soon. Square Top is a 13er and the majority of the summit was still covered in snow. Snow that would warm in the day and then freeze again at night. The last mile to summit on this trail is very steep and the sloshy condition of the snow made it even more challenging. I stuck with it for a while, not quite making summit, but definitely past the 13,000 mark, so I was satisfied enough. I sat on a rock and looked down on the two Square Top lakes still partially frozen below me. When I stood up from the rock, I ripped a hole in my pants. It’s a fun moment when you realize you are hiking out with your underwear showing. 

6. Mt Sniktau, Loveland Pass, CO. Third year in a row on my list and third time summiting this 13er. There is something about this hike that just feels good. The first mile is so steep and just straight up, slow going, and usually very windy. This sounds dreadful. But once you make that, the rest feels like a beautiful stroll across the ridge even though there are two false summits ahead. The views are stunning, and I really feel at peace on this summit. I will keep coming back here every year. Maybe I will try a winter hike next time.

5. Bechler River, Yellowstone National Park, Montana. If you read my blog consistently, you already know about this one. Here is the link if you missed it -it’s a great story! The only way out is through. This entire trip encapsulates many of the things I gain from hiking and the very important reminder that when you are going through hell, the only way out is through! Of course, it made my list as it was such a challenge, and beautiful experience with a group of fantastic people. REI Adventures showing the way to do it, once again. Two major highlights of this four-day hike – soaking in Mr. Bubbles, nature’s hot tub, for three hours in my underwear and fording the Bechler river three times!

4. Butler Gulch, Empire, CO. Again, the area with some of my favorite hikes. I finally got to this trail, having been on my “up next” list for a few years. My timing was great as the water and wild flowers were stunning. It’s really beautiful to hike into a basin and then up the ridge, as you do here, though it’s hard to translate in photos. There was also a very steep part of the loop on descent, and I ended up on my butt a few times. I had an important learning moment on this hike. It was my last hike before departing for my Yellowstone adventure. I wore my boots, instead of trail runners, as I was considering at the last minute taking them to Yellowstone and thought I’d better get a good hike in them as they hadn’t been worn all summer. I am so glad I did this, because it reminded me how much I dislike hiking in boots anymore! And it was absolutely the right choice to leave them behind for Yellowstone.

3. DECALIBRON, Alma, CO. It’s hard to not put a 14er in your top 3. And two of my last three year’s lists there was a 14er at number one. But not this year. I can only put DECALIBRON at number 3, because I hated it. (LOL!) It was a great hike because of how much I learned and how happy I was for it to end. DECALIBRON is actually four 14er summits in one loop – Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln and Bross. I don’t make many mistakes hiking, but I made a few that day and it was a good reminder to be prepared and listen to your body. I didn’t have enough food or caffeine. The 50mph wind gusts through the middle of the hike and the multiple hours above 13,000 wore me down to the point that I felt scary physical symptoms. Bonking is what I have heard it called. Ultimately, I was truly giddy when I neared the descent, and I smiled the entire route down and back to my car. My photo’s crack me up as they are a very truthful depiction of how I felt. It took me a day to recover from this hike. I wonder if I will go back and do it again?

 2. Blue Lake, Ward, CO – This same hike made number two last year.  It was the one that lead me to the decision to invest in satellite tracking. I was eager to go back with my Garmin this time, and it is just an incredibly beautiful spot.  I tried again, like the prior year, to go past Blue Lake and make it all the way to Little Blue Lake. And even though I now had my tracker for piece of mind, I still didn’t quite have the gumption to go all the way up the long, steep, massive boulder field to Little Blue. I did get quite a bit further this time, but I found an incredibly satisfying stopping point where I could sit and enjoy the view and that was all I needed. The other special element to the experience this year is that I saw 18 moose. In fact, there were 4 places on the trail that I had to wait out the moose as they were crossing. They were also in rut, and I could see, and hear, them battling as I peered through the trees. Definitely an added adrenaline rush and wonderful experience. I continue to love this area Northwest of Boulder for both hiking and snowshoeing, and it is the location also of my number 1 hike this year.

1. Mt. Audubon, Ward, CO – Another new 13er for me. I had been looking at this beauty for a few years as it rises up behind the alpine lakes that I love hiking and snowshoeing around multiple times per year. I was pleased that most of this hike was above tree line. I saw fewer than 10 people all day and I really enjoyed the solitude.  In my research about the trail ahead of time, several people had commented about how uncomfortably rocky it was, then several other’s replied, duh, it’s a 13er in the rocky mountains. But I have to agree, it was abnormally rocky immediately out of tree line, much more, for much longer, than any 13er or 14er I have hikes (except Quandary Peak). So, it was certainly hard on the feet and legs. The route for this summit was very satisfying as it came around the back side of the mountain (at least in my mind), so the early view was in one direction. Then as you wind your way up an even rockier route to summit, you start turning the other direction and the view is completely different. On summit the wind was significant. I was expecting it, but still, it hits you. And the temp changed by probably 40 degrees. There are actually a few “couches” on the summit built out of the boulders to serve as a windbreaker where you can sit low and block the wind for a bit. The views from the top were stunning and I was able to look down on the illusive Little Blue Lake, Blue Lake and Lake Isabelle. This was a very satisfying hike. And it was my toughest 13er to date.

With the utmost gratitude for my health, my circumstances, my gear, my State, and all of the people I have learned about trails, hiking and safety from.